For my dad’s 90th birthday, we decided that what he needed wasn’t another gift—it was a little adventure.
So we planned a short family getaway to the North Carolina mountains, with the highlight being a ride aboard the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad in Bryson City. My brother flew in from Dallas, and my sister picked him up at the Columbia, South Carolina, airport on Saturday. I drove down to Aiken on Sunday so we could all leave together the next morning.
It turned out to be three days filled with mountain scenery, good food, a memorable train ride, one truly awful rainstorm—and, most importantly, time together as a family.
Monday, September 21 — Aiken to Bryson City
We left Aiken Monday morning and headed north toward the mountains, stopping near Hendersonville for lunch at Kosta’s Fireside Restaurant, a recommendation from my sister’s friend Nan.
Nan steered us right.
Everyone ordered something different, while my sister and I decided to split two dishes so we could sample a little more of the menu. The food was excellent, and Kosta’s turned out to be one of those pleasant travel discoveries you remember afterward. I’d definitely recommend it if you’re looking for a casual meal around Hendersonville.
After lunch, we continued toward Bryson City—and then the weather decided to make things interesting.
We ran into a horrendous rainstorm on I-40. Visibility dropped dramatically, rain pounded the windshield, and my brother-in-law eventually pulled onto the shoulder to wait for the worst of it to pass. Between the storm, heavy traffic and several people offering slightly different navigational advice, the stress level in the car rose considerably.
Once the rain eased, getting back into traffic proved almost as challenging as the storm itself.
Travel lesson learned: If you get caught in heavy rain on I-40, avoid stopping on the shoulder if you can safely continue. Getting to the next exit may be the better option.
Thankfully, the rest of the drive was uneventful.
We couldn’t check into our Airbnb until after 3:00 p.m., and we arrived in Bryson City shortly after that. Our home for the next two nights was the Creekside 1920s Farmhouse.
And this place was a find!!!
The old farmhouse sits beside a creek only a few minutes from downtown Bryson City. With three bedrooms, a deck with rocking chairs, a hot tub, fire pit and plenty of outdoor space, it had exactly the relaxed mountain atmosphere we were hoping for.
The Airbnb description promises a tranquil Smoky Mountain setting that feels like stepping back into a simpler time. In this case, the description was pretty accurate.
The farmhouse was also part of a larger property with several cabins and other facilities. As we walked around exploring, we started imagining what a great location it would make for a family reunion or retreat. Everyone could have their own cabin while still gathering together around the property and spending the days exploring the mountains.
After the day’s drive—and our white-knuckle encounter with the weather—we were perfectly content to stay put. We made sandwiches for dinner, watched a little television and settled in for a quiet evening by the creek.
Tuesday, September 22 — Riding the Rails
Tuesday morning began with another round of rain, thunder and lightning.
Not exactly the weather we had ordered for our big train excursion.
Still, we weren’t going to let a little—or even a lot—of rain derail the day. We ate a light breakfast, grabbed our umbrellas and headed into Bryson City for our ride aboard the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad.
We had tickets for the Nantahala Gorge Excursion, a 44-mile, four-and-a-half-hour round trip from Bryson City through the mountains to the Nantahala Gorge.
Our instructions recommended arriving an hour before the 10:30 a.m. departure, which turned out to be good advice. The parking lot was already busier than we expected, although we found a space without much trouble.
The bigger challenge was staying dry.
Umbrellas were definitely required, and covered areas around the depot were limited. Fortunately, the shops surrounding the station were open and quite happy to welcome a captive audience of damp railroad passengers. We browsed our way through the rain until boarding time.
I had chosen an enclosed rail car with windows when making our reservations. Given the weather, that turned out to be a very good decision. The open-air cars looked like great fun on a sunny day. On this particular morning, not so much.
Our car was only about 80 percent full, giving everyone plenty of room to stretch out, move around and enjoy the scenery.
The route follows the Nantahala River and passes Fontana Lake before reaching the Nantahala Gorge. Even with the clouds and rain, there was something especially beautiful about seeing the Smokies from the train. Mist hung over the mountains, the forest seemed impossibly green, and the river followed us through much of the journey.
Sometimes imperfect weather creates its own kind of scenery.
We had about an hour to get off the train and explore at Nantahala before climbing back aboard for the return trip.
By approximately 3:30 p.m., we were back at the depot in Bryson City. Since we’d mostly snacked during the train ride, everyone was ready for a real meal.
We chose Bryson City Brewing, where we enjoyed a filling—and very welcome—late lunch or early dinner before heading back to our farmhouse.
After a day on the rails, another quiet evening by the creek sounded just about perfect.
Wednesday, September 23 — The Scenic Route Home
Checkout time Wednesday morning was 10:00, so we got an early start packing, stripping the beds, washing dishes, gathering laundry and completing the usual Airbnb departure routine.
By about 9:30, the car was loaded and we were back on the road.
Rather than retracing our route along the interstate, we decided to take our time and make the trip home part of the experience.
Our first stop was downtown Waynesville, where we spent a little time exploring the town before continuing toward Flat Rock.
There, we met my sister’s friends Nan and John at Hubba Hubba Smokehouse for lunch.
Once again, Nan’s food recommendations proved reliable.
The barbecue was outstanding and made for a fitting final meal before we pointed the car south toward Aiken. We arrived back at my sister’s house later that afternoon, bringing our short mountain adventure to an end.
More Than a Birthday Trip
Looking back, the trip wasn’t really about the railroad, the farmhouse, the restaurants or even the Smoky Mountains.
Those were the setting.
The real reason for going was to celebrate Dad’s 90th birthday and give all of us something increasingly valuable: a few uninterrupted days together.
I think Dad genuinely enjoyed the trip. He seemed happy simply having everyone together, riding the train, sharing meals and watching the scenery pass by.
There was one moment, though, that I suspect I’ll remember longer than anything else from those three days.
Dad rarely talks about Mom anymore. But at one point during the trip, surrounded by his family and the mountains, he quietly said:
“Your mother would have really enjoyed this.”
And somehow, in that one sentence, she became part of the trip too.
Quick Link Extras:
Bryson City NC
Waynesville NC
Flat Rock NC
Bryson City Brewing
Kosta’s Fireside Restaurant
Hubba Hubba Smokehouse
Great Smokey Mountain Railroad
Airbnb Creekside 1920’s Farmhouse
